PIE #31 - Lemon Chiffon Pie

It's early July in Montana and finally, after a brutal winter and an extremely chilly spring, the mercury has at last spiked into the upper 70s. Townsfolk are giddily emerging from their long hibernation, baring their skin in shorts and tank tops. It's this time of year when I suggest that our town of Whitefish should really be renamed Whiteflesh.

There are more signs that our alpine summer is underway. The waterslide has opened for the season, Glacier Park and Big Mountain gear up for hikers and bikers, and the initial trickle of incoming tourists turns into a steady stream. But for me, the surest sign of summer is when lemonade stands begin to punctuate every cul-de-sac. Those cheery makeshift stands manned by exuberant little entrepreneurs are the official harbinger of summer.

Sunshine and lemonade have inspired my next pie, lemon chiffon. This airy pie bursting with lemon zestiness is the perfect refreshment on a hot summer day. I used Ken Haedrich's foolproof chiffon pie recipe. There is no butter or cream in the recipe, so go ahead and indulge without guilt. The pie is fluffy and light as a cloud, so feel free to serve large slices.

Crust:
1 3/4 cups graham cracker crumbs
1/4 cup brown sugar, packed
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
6 tablespoons butter, melted

In a medium bowl, mix all crust ingredients together and press evenly into a 9 1/2 inch pie pan. Refrigerate for 10 minutes and preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake for 7 minutes. Cool.

Filling:
1/4 cup cold water
1 envelope unflavored gelatin
1/2 cup lemonade
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1 cup sugar
4 large eggs, separated, whites brought to room temperature
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
Big pinch of salt
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Pour the water into a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over it. Set aside. In a medium-size saucepan, whisk together the lemonade, lemon juice, 1/2 cup sugar, egg yolks, lemon zest, and salt. Place over medium heat and cook, stirring nonstop, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, 7-9 minutes. Do not let the mixture boil or it will curdle. Remove from the heat, stir int he softened gelatin, and immediately pour into a large bowl. Let cool for 10 minutes, then refrigerate just until the mixture turns lumpy, indicating that the gelatin is starting to thicken it, 50-60 minutes.

Immediately beat the 4 egg whites in a large bowl with an electric mixer until they hold soft peaks. Beat in the cream of tartar. Gradually add the remaining 1/2 cup sugar, beating on high speed until the whites are thick and glossy. Beat in the vanilla. The whites should be firm but not dry. Gently fold about one-third of the whites into the lemon mixture. Add the remaining whites and continue to fold until the filling is evenly blended. Scrape the filling into the cooled pie shell and smooth the top with a spoon or rubber spatula. Cover with loosely tented aluminum foil and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or overnight.